Jodhpur — The Perch of the Rathore Dynasty
My trip to Jodhpur was in the winter of 2021. It was the time when the first wave of corona virus had just begun to subside, and the people of India were beginning to think that the worst was over. I was working in Rajasthan’s Barmer district, and the nearest airport was at the city of Jodhpur. Every time I travelled to and from Jodhpur airport I wanted to spend some time to see the place I had heard so much about. But with an ongoing pandemic I always thought — maybe later. However, one day the driver who came to pick me up from the airport offered to drive me around the city and I decided to take my chances.
History is a difficult subject to learn. It is the domain of scholars pouring over scrolls of parchments surrounded by stacks of books trying to make sense of the tangled web of events. The best that a lay person can hope to do is to look at some of the monuments and artifacts from days gone by, take note of the stories they tell, and hopefully learn something of our past. And the city of Jodhpur is full of such stories.
Jodhpur was founded by Rao Jodha of the Rathore clan, who in 1459 decided to move the capital of Marwar Kingdom to a more secure location. Here he built the imposing Mehangargh Fort on top of a 125 meter (400 feet) high hill. It is not hard to imagine how an invading army would be overwhelmed at the very sight of this fortification. Perched up on this hill, the rulers of Marwar could probably see their enemies approaching from miles afar.
Built out of sandstone, the outer façade of the fort is adorned with Jharokha windows, a prominent feature of Rajasthani architecture and is reminiscent of the many Havelis found in this area. Inside the fort, the full splendour of Marwar Dynasty is on display. Ruler after ruler have added lavish and ornate palaces and rooms to the fort. For the history buff there is also a museum with a variety of weaponry and several works of art on display.
The city of Jodhpur is like an island of blue amid a sea of sepia. Many of the buildings are painted a bright shade of blue which gives the city its charming hue. Walking through narrow and busy lanes of Jodhpur makes for a surreal experience, and to reach my next destination I had to do just that.
The roads leading to Toorji Ka Jhalra are too narrow for a car to pass, and I had to walk to reach the ancient stepwell. When I got there, I found an ordinary looking platform surrounded by many contemporary cafes. I was beginning to wonder if this was the right place. However, when I climbed on top of the platform, the ground gave way to a deep hole, its walls lined with a series of diagonal patterned steps to access the water down below. Descending the steps is a harrowing experience as there was nothing to hold on to. The stepwell was at one time quite popular on social media with people filming themselves diving into the water from the top of the platform; entering the water is dangerous and is prohibited now.
My last stop on this whirlwind tour of Jodhpur is also known as the Taj Mahal of Marwar. Jaswant Ka Thada is an exquisite cenotaph built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh by his son Maharaja Ajit Singh. Built in white marble and surrounded by a lush garden one cannot help but feel at peace here. The building shows the influences of Islamic architecture with its high domes or chattris.
There are some destinations that leave a deep impression on its visitors, and I left Jodhpur intoxicated by the heady mix of beauty and history that I had just witnessed. The duration of my visit was short, and I hardly got to see everything that this place has to offer. Jodhpur is not a place that I plan to visit just once — there will always be something new to learn no matter how many times I visit.
